A few days in Grenada and Barbados

A few days in Grenada and Barbados

In the Name of Allah, the Merciful, the Beneficent

Introduction

In September 2016, Allah Almighty granted me the tawfīq to start teaching on the part time seven-year evening ʿĀlim course at Darul Uloom Blackburn, which had commenced a year earlier. Al-Ḥamdulillāh, the first batch of students graduated in 2022. It has been my privilege to have taught them and also the subsequent final year students Ṣaḥīḥ Muslim. Over the past year, the students of Sirājul ʿUlūm Institute in Barbados have also participated in these lessons online, as well as the lessons of my respected father, Shaykh al-Ḥadīth Mufti Shabbīr Aḥmad (b. 1376/1957). The Institute’s founder, my dear friend Mawlānā Sirāj Bhānā Ṣāḥib invites my parents for the graduation, and also invites me. I refuse due to commitments, however, his insistence and affection along with the incentive of visiting Grenada, a country I have not visited, prompts me to agree a day before the scheduled departure of my parents. Thus, the ticket to Barbados is booked and a car is hired.

Day 1 – Thursday 11 July 2024

From England to Grenada

Blackburn to Barbados

We depart at 4.50am from Blackburn and drive to London Heathrow. We drop the car at the rental company Enterprise and proceed to Terminal 3. Our very dear Mawlānā Sikandar Pathan Ṣāḥib arrives with breakfast, he resides near London Heathrow and leaves no stone unturned in assisting us whenever we travel via London. There are two airlines that fly into Barbados and Grenada throughout the year. They are British Airways and Virgin Atlantic. During the winter, there are additional holiday flights including direct flights from Manchester.

We check in and board the 11.15am Virgin Atlantic flight to Bridgetown, Barbados where we arrive at 3pm in the afternoon. The time difference between Barbados and UK is five hours. The immigration officer asks a few questions in an office. It is a routine check, he suggests. This is my second time in Barbados having visited it in 2022 with Mufti Raḍāul Ḥaq Ṣāḥib, details of which are featured in an earlier travelogue.

Barbados to Grenada

Mawlānā Sirāj Ṣāḥib and some of his associates receive us at the Airport with some refreshments. We eat, perform Ṣalāh and thereafter check in and board the 5.15pm Caribbean Airlines to Grenada. It is a small plane that takes 40 minutes to reach Grenada. Mawlānā Sirāj and his elder son, Muḥammad are also with us. It is worth noting that flights within the Caribbean countries are not cheap. The flight options are also limited.

Grenada

Grenada is not to be confused with Granada, a city in Spain. Grenada is a small island country of the West Indies in the Eastern Caribbean Sea, 100 miles north of Trinidad as well as Venezuela. The country consists of the island of Grenada itself, the two smaller islands of Carriacou and Petite Martinique, and several small islands which lie to the north of the main island and are a part of the Grenadines. The island of Grenada itself is approximately 23 miles long and 12 miles wide and is home to approximately 125,000 people. Known as the spice island, the country is the world’s second-largest producer of nutmeg after Indonesia and a significant producer of mace, cinnamon, ginger and cloves. It also boasts beautiful scenery with fertile valleys, rainforests and mountain lakes and its tropical climate and excellent beaches are a big draw for tourists.

Historically, the country was inhabited by the indigenous from South America. In 1498, it is suggested that Christopher Columbus sighted the island. This followed several attempts by the Europeans to colonise the island, however they faced resistance. Eventually, the French succeeded in 1649 and imported thousands of slaves from Africa. In 1763, the French ceded the country to the British under the Treaty of Paris. The British assumed control and vigorously expanded sugar production and introduced cotton, cacao and nutmeg. The import of slaves continued until 1834 when slavery was abolished. British rule continued until 1974, except for a brief French takeover between 1779 and 1783. Prior to independence, the country was granted full autonomy over its internal affairs as an Associated State, and from 1958 to 1962, the country was part of the Federation of the West Indies, a short-lived federation of British West Indian colonies. The following timeline from the BBC website provides a useful and succinct overview of the country’s history:

• 700 – First inhabited by Arawak-speaking Amerindians from South America who are displaced by Carib settlers.
• 1498 – Christopher Columbus visits the island but it remains uncolonised.
• 1649 – The French gain control, establish sugar estates and import thousands of African slaves.
• 1763 – The British assume control and vigorously expand sugar production and introduce cotton, cacao and nutmeg.
• 1783 – France cedes Grenada to Britain in accordance with the Treaty of Versailles; African slaves brought in to work on the cotton, sugar and tobacco plantations.
• 1834 – Slavery abolished.
• 1885-1958– Grenada acts as administrative headquarters of the British Windward Islands.
• 1950s – National politics develops through the labour movement. Pro-independence Grenada United Labour Party is formed.
• 1958-62– Grenada is part of the British-sponsored Federation of the West Indies.
• 1967 – Grenada becomes autonomous, with foreign and defence affairs remaining under British control.
• 1974 – Independence from Britain and Eric Gairy becomes Grenada’s first prime minister.
• 1979 – Gairy is deposed in a coup by opposition leader Maurice Bishop, whose Marxist military council forges links with Cuba.
• 1983 – Bishop is overthrown in a military coup and executed. The US invades Grenada with six other Caribbean nations.
• 1984 – Democracy returns after 1974 constitution is reinstated and free elections are held.
• 2000 – Truth and Reconciliation Commission set up with South African help to examine political upheavals of the “Revolutionary Years” between 1976 and 1983.
• 2004 – Hurricane Ivan devastates Grenada, damaging 90% of the island’s buildings and devastating its nutmeg crop.
• 2005 – Grenada re-establishes diplomatic ties with China, favouring Beijing over its former diplomatic partner Taiwan.
• 2009– The last seven of the 17 men convicted over the 1983 coup and murder of PM Maurice Bishop are released from prison after serving out their sentences.
• 2013– The opposition New National Party wins a landslide victory in parliamentary elections, taking all 15 contested seats. Keith Mitchell returns as prime minister.
• 2022– Dickon Mitchell’s National Democratic Congress wins the June general election.

Arrival into Grenada

We land at Maurice Bishop International Airport in the capital St George’s shortly before sunset.

Grenada is more mountainous and has more lush greenery than Barbados, however the latter is more developed. We are received at the Airport by the respected Maʿṣūm Patel and his children, including Mawlānā Sulaymān, who graduated from Darul Uloom Azaadville in 2016. Our visit to Grenada was suggested and prepared by Mawlānā Muḥammad Patel of Barbados, a graduate of Darul Uloom Bury, who lead Tarāwiḥ Ṣalāh here in Grenada and resided with Maʿṣūm Bhai. Maʿṣūm Bhai arrived to Grenada in 1992 and at the time there were only a few Indian Muslim families here. . Today, the number of Muslims is approximately 700, of which the Indian Muslims are approximately 400. This is in contrast to Barbados which has a few thousand Muslims, although the overall population of Barbados is also threefold compared to Grenada’s population.

In relation to ethnicity, 89% of the Grenada’s population is of African descent, whilst the majority of the remainder are of mixed East Indian, African and/or Caucasian ancestry. It is suggested that one of the two indigenous Arawaks lived here. It is also suggested that the original indigenous inhabitants of the island, the Caribs, were routed at Sauteurs Bay, but rather than submit to the colonists, the survivors jumped to their deaths from the coastal cliffs. Either this, or the colonists pushed them all over. Many holocausts were committed by the colonial powers.

Masjid Ul Madinah

Our first stop is Masjid Ul Madinah, which is a two-minute drive from the Airport. Established in 2000, it is the main Masjid of the country. There is another smaller Masjid in the centre of the town, managed by the Ahl Ḥadīth brothers. In addition, there are two Muṣallās and also one at the St. George’s University, serving the foreign Muslim students.

The Masjid complex comprises of the main Masjid building, the ablution block as well as the Madrasah Talimul Islam building which currently serves 60 pupils. There is one Ḥifẓ class. My respected father advises them to establish a female Ḥifẓ class and also a Muslim school. There is currently no fixed Imam here, the responsibility is divided between some local scholars and Ḥuffāẓ.

We perform Magrib Ṣalāh and thereafter interact with some of the locals including the elderly Muḥammad Jasāt, from Chasa, Gujarat, India. He explains that he was from among the first Indian Muslims to migrate and reside here. The first Indian Muslim to arrive and reside here was in 1970. Prior to this, some members of the Nakhuda family came here but then migrated to Canada. His son Mūsā Jasāt is also present. Earlier today, I received a message from our very dear family friend, Mawlānā Aḥmad Sīdāt of Blackburn insisting that we meet Mūsā Jasāt, who is married to Mawlānā Aḥmad’s wife’s sister. Mūsā Jasāt explains that historically Muslims and Hindus were brought here for work purposes, and that they were converted to Christianity. Some of them have the surname ‘Ilāhī’ which indicates their Muslim heritage, however they are Christians.

We also meet with Mufti Naʿīm Ṣāḥib of the Bharuch region of Gujarat, India. Generally, the Indian families residing here are from a few villages of the Surat region, although there are up to 100 Indian Muslims from Ankleshwar. Mufti Naʿīm Ṣāḥib graduated from Darul Uloom Deoband in 2002 and then undertook specialisation (takhaṣṣuṣ) in Adab and thereafter in Fiqh. He subsequently taught in the seminary in Kathor, Gujarat and was invited to Grenada in 2010 as the Imam of Masjid Ul Madinah. He continues to serve here in a voluntary capacity alongside some other local scholars.

Economic conditions

Generally, the Indian Muslims’ main source of income is ferrying goods, that is to sell and deliver goods to the locals, with the payments deferred at a higher price fixed in advance. This is a very profitable business here. Items such as fridges, washing machines and other household appliances are mostly imported from the free zone in Panama and sold with a very good profit margin. This business is generally done on weekends, enabling the people to involve themselves in Tablīg and other religious work. Labour is expensive, and therefore local products are generally more expensive than imported products.

My respected father suggests that people should consider establishing businesses in different sectors and avoid their reliance on ferrying, adding that he gave this suggestion to the people of Barbados, and many have now established successful businesses, employing many people which in itself is a noble endeavour. The locals mention that the Indian families from Ankleshwar have established different shops.

At a wider level, the country’s main source of income is now tourism. It is currently rainy season. The tourist season is the dry season between January to May, during which the cruises operate throughout the Caribbean islands including Barbados. Historically, the main source of the country’s income was agriculture.

Hurricane Beryl

Earlier this month, on 1 July 2024, the country was affected by Hurricane Beryl. It caused widespread devastation especially on Carriacou island. With maximum sustained winds of 150 miles per hour, it damaged all of the structures on the island, affecting its entire population. Al-Ḥamdulillāh, the small Muslim community of a few hundred was able to collect 50,000 dollars and a group visited the island and provided aid.

June to November is considered hurricane season here, although the island of Grenada is at the southern end of the hurricane belt which means it is not normally hit by hurricanes. However, Hurricane Beryl did affect the island. Prior to this, Hurricane Ivan caused widespread devastation in 2004 and the main island was affected much more than it was affected by Hurricane Beryl.

Maʿṣūm Bhai’s residence

We proceed from the Masjid to Maʿṣūm Bhai’s residence, which is a one-minute drive from the Masjid. I do not recall in the 50 countries I have visited anyone’s residence being so close to the airport. Maʿṣūm Bhai and his family welcome us and make us feel at home. BBQ food is served among other food items. Generally, people eat dinner here between Magrib Ṣalāh and ʿIshāʾ Ṣalāh.

We return to Masjid Ul Madinah for ʿIshāʾ Ṣalāh. After Ṣalāh, we note that Taʿlīm is taking place. The effort of Tablīg is discussed. The families from Ankleshwar are from a Barelwi background. The majority of them perform Ṣalāh here and also send their children to the Madrasah.

Meeting Dr Muhammad Iqbal Bhaiyat

Dr Muhammad Iqbal Bhaiyat is also present in the Masjid. He is originally from Lusaka, Zambia and has been in Grenada for 23 years. His ancestral village is Sanjali in Gujarat, India. His parents migrated in 1950 to Zambia. He is currently the Associate Dean of Students at St George’s University and a Professor of Veterinary Medicine. Prior to this, he served for 12 years as a veterinary pathologist at the University of Zambia. His research interests include infectious diseases of domestic and wild animals and poultry and he has conducted retrospective studies on pathological conditions encountered in domestic animals in Grenada. He acquired his Batchelors from the University of Zambia and holds a PhD degree from Hokkaido University in Japan. He is fluent in English, Gujarati, Urdu, Japanese, Tonga, Nyanja, and Chilapalapa. He wears a full religious attire and is very friendly. He explains that his role includes conducting post mortems of animals who pass away.

We return to Maʿṣūm Bhai’s house and rest for the evening.

Day 2 – Friday 12 July 2024

Various landmarks in Grenada

Fajr Ṣalāh and breakfast

We perform Fajr Ṣalāh in Masjid Ul Madinah at 4.55am. Mawlānā ʿUmar Muḥammad of Barbados has also arrived on another flight with his son. He studied at our Darul Uloom Bury for several years before completing his final year at Darul Uloom Blackburn and graduating in 2006. He was a year behind me in Darul Uloom Bury. He is married to the daughter of Dr Muḥammad Shafīʿ Yūsuf Nagdī (d. 1438/2017) who was the disciple (khalīfah) of our Ḥaḍrat Mawlānā Yusuf Motala Ṣāḥib Raḥimahullāh (d. 1441/2019) and was renowned for hosting scholars at his residence.

Breakfast is served at Maʿṣūm Bhai’s house. There are several different mangoes of the Caribbean countries; the Julie, Bombay and Ceylon mangoes. Of these, the Julie mango is considered to be the best and this is true.

The Nutmeg and Eucalyptus deglupta tree

We depart at 8am and drive through St George’s town. We pass the Sendall Tunnel built by the British and start the ascent towards the Grant Etang Lake in the centre of the island.

Grenada is very different to Barbados; it is very mountainous. As we ascend, we stop at a place where we are shown the Nutmeg tree. Grenada is famous for this and is the second largest exporter in the world as mentioned. The seed of this fruit is where the nutmeg is located. The covering of the seed is used to make the mace spice. The red covering called mace also has its use including for decorative purposes and also as a spice. The outer layer is used to make nutmeg jam. Thus, every part of the fruit has its uses. It is mentioned that nutmeg is prohibited in some Arab countries, because it is hallucinogenic if consumed in large quantities. Nevertheless, it is beneficial for people with sleeping difficulties as long as it is consumed within reason.

During the recent hurricane, many Nutmeg trees were uprooted including on the main island here, as is visible. This will impact on the economy because it is an important source of income. The replacement cannot yield immediate results. Nutmeg trees yield fruit eight years after sowing, reach their prime in 25 years, and bear fruit for 60 years or more.

Another interesting and beautiful tree we come across on route is the eucalyptus deglupta, commonly known as the rainbow eucalyptus, Mindanao gum, or rainbow gum. An online source suggests that there are only two such trees in Grenada.

Grand Etang Lake

At 9am, we arrive at the Grand Etang Lake in the St Andrew parish. The 36-acre crater lake is located in an extinct volcano which, it is suggested, has not erupted in 12,000 years. The lake is 530 metres above sea level and is one of two crater lakes on the island.

Swimming is not allowed probably because it is dangerous. The weather is a bit misty and cloudy, and there are intervals of heavy rainfall.

Morne La Baye trail

Our next stop nearby is the Morne La Baye trail which is also in the Grand Etang National Park. The trail is a 15-minute walk leading to a lookout platform. The weather is cloudy and there is a cool breeze, nevertheless there are many scenic views of the island from the lookout. The Grand Etang Lake is visible. The effects of the hurricane are also visible from the fallen trees. Landslides also occur sometimes here.

Grenada Cocoa Association

We start the descent down at 10am and stop at the Grenada Cocoa Association situated in Carlton, St Andrews. One of the employees kindly gives us a tour and shows us the various processes of collection, fermentation and drying the cocoa.

The processes remain manual as they were during the British era. The majority of the cocoa beans are exported to Europe.

Jumuʿah Ṣalāh

At 12.40pm, I deliver the pre-Jumuʿah Ṣalāh talk at Masjid Ul Madinah and thereafter lead the Khuṭbah and Ṣalāh. As the new Islamic year has begun, the talk focuses on the Islamic calendar and the virtues and significance of Muḥarram and ʿĀshūrāʾ (10 Muḥarram). The Masjid fills up for Jumuʿah Ṣalāh, although the number of attendees for other prayers is low.

Various scenic viewpoints

Lunch is served at Maʿṣūm Bhai’s house after Jumuʿah Ṣalāh. Later in the afternoon, we visit Lance aux Epines from which there are scenic views of the sea and St George’s University.

We proceed to our next stop towards Benji Bay and perform ʿAṣr Ṣalāh at the residence of Senator Salim Rahaman, who is a Member of Parliament. He is originally from Trinidad and hails from a family of scholars. He welcomes us and is extremely hospitable. He serves us with Hot Chocolate with spices and nutmeg therein, a speciality of Grenada.

We proceed to Egmont and ascend to a viewpoint providing breathtaking views of Benji Bay.

Programme after ʿIshāʾ Ṣalāh   

My respected father is requested to deliver a talk at Masjid Ul Madinah after ʿIshāʾ Ṣalāh. It is his general habit to speak on the verse of the Quran the Imam recites in Ṣalāh, which is not an easy task for everyone. The Imam recites the final verses of Sūrah al-Fatḥ and the talk therefore focuses on the quality of mutual compassion and mercy among the companions. As part of this, the attendees are encouraged to conduct business with honesty and integrity.

After the programme, dinner is served at the residence of Imran Patel, Maʿṣūm Bhai’s wife’s brother. Generally, in Grenada, there are many mosquitos and they do bite!

Day 3 – Saturday 13 July 2024

Final day in Grenada

Annandale Waterfall and Forest Park

It is an early morning start as we perform Fajr Ṣalāh at Masjid Ul Madinah and depart at 6am. Dr Muhammad Iqbal Bhaiyat is driving us in his car, and there are also other cars travelling with us. As we drive through St George’s, he points out some of the ministry buildings and highlights the oppression committed by the French and the British. He also suggests that the original inhabitants of this island came here some 3ooo years before Prophet ʿĪsā (peace be upon him).

We are travelling towards Annandale Waterfall and Forest Park and Dr Muhammad stops the car at a Nutmeg tree and collects a few Nutmegs for us.

We also pass a small waterfall.

We arrive at the large Annandale Waterfall at 7.30am.

The waterfall is situated 230 metres above sea level. The Pure Grenada website describes it as follows:

“Timeless beauty are the only words to describe the Annandale Waterfalls. Just a 20-minute drive from the capital, this stunning cascade is surrounded by a lush garden of colourful blooms and tropical foliage. The waterfall stands 30 feet high with the constant flow of cool water from the surrounding mountainous streams, plunging over a rocky outcrop into the pool beneath, which appears sparkling emerald on a sunny day. Annandale and its pool are perfect for light, relaxed swimming on your own or with your family.”

Subhanallah!

Water gushing at Annandale Waterfall and Forest Park in Grenada

وإن من الحجارة لما يتفجر منه الأنهار وإن منها لما يشقق فيخرج منه الماء

Indeed there are stones from which rivers burst forth and there are some of them that split open and water comes out (Baqarah:74) pic.twitter.com/PVd1mFKOv1

— Dr Yusuf Shabbir (@ibn_shabbir) July 13, 2024

Subḥānallāh! The waterfall reminds us of the Quranic verse: “Indeed, there are stones from which rivers burst forth and there are some of them that split open and water comes out” (Baqarah: 74). My father and others enter the pool and swim. The water plunging down into the pool has the effect of a massage.

St George’s Vegetable, Spice and Craft Market

We return to St George’s shortly after 9am and visit the Vegetable, Spice and Craft Market in the centre of the town. We also withdraw some cash from the ATM machine using our Monzo card. The local currency here is the EC$ (Eastern Caribbean Dollar). There are six independent countries that use the EC$. They are Antigua and Barbuda, Dominica, Grenada, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Saint Lucia, and Saint Vincent and Grenada. The two British Overseas Territories, Anguilla and Montserrat also use the EC$. One EC$ is equivalent to £0.29.

We eat breakfast at the residence of Yusuf Motala, who is married to Maʿṣūm Bhai’s sister.

St George’s University

After Ẓuhr Ṣalāh, Dr Muhammad Iqbal Bhaiyat takes us to St George’s University and gives us a tour.

The university is home to 7000 students, many of whom come from the United States to study in the medical school and other faculties. The annual fee is $60,000. Many of the local students benefit from scholarships, whilst the foreign students fund their education via loans. It is currently vacation. We nevertheless meet two Muslim students from Hyderabad, India and Egypt. The university is situated on the sea and the airport runway is also visible.

The largest lecture theatre has 800 seats.

Some of the veterinary services

Dr Muhammad then takes us to his laboratory and shows us some samples of his work, including a turtle that died from cancer and a dog that had a heart failure due to worms. He explains the life cycles of a heartworm and also the esophagael worm which are remarkable. Cancer is a common cause of death in animals especially in cats and dogs, perhaps due to their long age. He explains that post mortem of animals is necessary to prevent further deaths. Students are taught how to undertake post mortems. The university provides this service for free.

When in Zambia, Dr Muhammad asked Mufti Maḥmūd Ḥasan Gangohī (d. 1417/1996) regarding his area of work, because it could involve undertaking postmortems of pigs. Mufti Ṣāḥib first remarked, “Anyone who objects tell them you are a doctor, not a Mufti.” He then advised him to take a bath after and ensure that there are no remnants of the pig on the body or the clothes.  

Supermarket

On our return from the university, we visit a supermarket to purchase some local specialities. They include:

• Guava Jam
• Nutmeg Jam
• Vanilla essence
• Sea moss (sea weed) gel – This has many benefits because it is a good source of iodine and antioxidants. It could be beneficial for thyroid and it is also beneficial for the skin. Interestingly, it is also used to make milkshake and it tastes good. It is combined with dates, vanilla essence, cinnamon and nutmeg to make a smoothie.
• Cocoa balls with spices including nutmeg – this is to make hot chocolate.

Dr Muhammad insists on paying. Some spices were gifted to us so we did not purchase those.

Farewell to Grenada

We return to Maʿṣūm Bhai’s residence and eat lunch. The initial plan was to eat lunch at Mūsā Jasāt’s house, however his wife fell ill last night and is currently in hospital. Allah Almighty grant her ʿĀfiyah.

We pack our bags, perform ʿAṣr Ṣalāh at Masjid Ul Madinah and head to the Airport. Maʿṣūm Bhai and his family, along with Mufti Naʿīm Ṣāḥib and Dr Muhammad Iqbal Bhaiyat, have left no stone unturned in making our stay comfortable. They all company us to the Airport and bid us farewell. Allah Almighty reward and bless them for their affection and hospitality.

Reflecting on our visit, the small Muslim community of a few hundred in Grenada has done well economically and also done well to establish the Masjid and Maktab. The low number of attendees in the Masjid is a cause of concern. Thought also needs to be given to the establishment of a Muslim school.

There are many other places of attraction that would have been worth visiting including Fort Frederick that was built in the 1700s and also Seven Sisters Falls. Grenada is also famous for the turtle watching excursion which occurs between March and June every year. It is amazing that these leatherback turtles travel up to 10,000 miles per year as they traverse the world’s oceans seeking food and return to the same egg laying beach in Grenda, the very same beach that they were born on several years before. Subḥānallah!

Grenada to Barbados

We board the 7.45pm Virgin Atlantic flight to Barbados, where further passengers are collected for onward travel to London Heathrow. Mawlānā Sirāj and Mawlānā Umar along with both their sons are with us. We arrive into Barbados at 8.30pm and head to the residence of Mawlānā Junayd, the brother of Mawlānā Sirāj, where dinner is served. The people of Barbados are very hospitable.

We rest for the night at Mawlānā Sirāj’s residence, where I resided during my previous visit two years ago. The travelogue of the previous visit has covered many aspects regarding the country which will not be repeated.

Day 4 – Sunday 14 July 2024

Various scenic points in Barbados

Boat ride and swimming

We perform Fajr Ṣalāh at Masjid Noor, close to Mawlānā Sirāj’s residence in St James. My respected father delivers a talk after Ṣalāh, focusing on the verses of Sūrah al-Wāqiʿah which the Imam had recited in Ṣalāh.

Later in the morning, we take a boat ride with some of the students of Sirājul ʿUlūm Institute and also swim in the deep water. Life jackets are available for those who are unable to swim. The beaches and sea of Barbados are stunning and mouthwatering. The water is warm, and the sea offers just about every shade of blue. In the morning time, the beaches are relatively quiet.

Lunch with Mawlānā Ibrāhīm Bhānā

We perform Ẓuhr Ṣalāh at Masjid Noor and thereafter eat lunch at Al-Falah school, run by Mawlānā Ibrāhīm Bhānā, who studied in Darul Uloom Bury in the 1980s and thereafter graduated in India.

The school serves boys and girls at primary and secondary level. A display on the wall entitled ‘Helping around the globe’ illustrates the school’s efforts in instilling empathy among the children for those suffering in Afghanistan, Syria, Palestine, China, Yemen and Libya.

Farley National Hill Park and Cherry Tree Hill

Later in the afternoon, we visit Farley Hill National Park in St Peter, in the north of the island. It is a good location for a picnic and has scenic views.

We also visit Cherry Tree Hill which is approximately 260 metres above sea level, making it a good viewpoint. It is suggested that the name originates from the large number of cherry trees which once existed here. We perform ʿAṣr Ṣalāh here.

Speightstown

We proceed to Speightstown nearby and observe the sunset on the sea. Our purpose is to check whether the sunset time given by the observatory matches with the actual time of sunset. However, a few minutes before sunset, the sun is covered by some clouds.

We perform Magrib Ṣalāh in the Darul Khair Musalla on Church Street which is a 1-minute walk from Speightstown Pier. To reach the Musalla, one has to ascend the stairs.

There is also a small room for females. The locals know where the key is available from. The five Ṣalāhs do not take place here regularly.

Evening lecture

Later in the evening after ʿIshāʾ Ṣalāh, I deliver a talk at Jama Masjid on the topic of parenting and challenges facing the youth.

This is followed by a talk by my respected father. He shares many discourses. He says:

“I always enquire about the original inhabitants of these islands and their history, because Allah Almighty says: ‘And there was no nation but that there had passed within it a warner’” (Al-Fāṭir: 24).

He also emphasises on the importance of having a dedicated place in the homes for Ṣalāh and worship. He says:

“We have rooms within our homes for ironing and for office and for other purposes. If there is a room we do not have then that is for Ṣalāh. Imām Bukhārī has a chapter in his Ṣaḥīḥ on Masjids in homes.” He also comments based on the Ḥadīth within that chapter that “When someone invites you for a house opening, then do not suffice on Duʿāʾ, perform two Rakʿat Ṣalāh also.”

He also stresses on the importance of unity and avoiding friction. He also emphasises the importance of Tahajjud Ṣalāh which was the general habit of our beloved Prophet ﷺ. One exception to this is the night of Muzdalifah, it is not narrated that the Prophet ﷺ performed Tahajjud Ṣalāh therein. This should not come as a surprise due to the difficult day preceding and proceeding the night. He comments that we Ḥanafīs have shortened Wuqūf ʿArafah by sleeping after Ẓuhr Ṣalāh, then performing ʿAṣr Ṣalāh in Mithl Thānī and then having a lecture and then doing Wuqūf for a very short period. Our beloved Prophet ﷺ combined Ẓuhr and ʿAṣr Ṣalāh in Ẓuhr time, then delivered a short sermon and thereafter undertook long Wuqūf.

Later, someone asks my respected father about combining Ṣalāh in ʿArafah if everyone in the tent is combining. My father advises that if everyone is combining then one should combine, and if everyone is not combining then one should not combine.

After the programme, we eat dinner at Mawlānā Sirāj’s brother, Ḥāfiẓ Muḥammad Bhānā’s residence, and rest for the evening.

Day 5 – Monday 15 July 2024

The legend of Barbados who distributes bread every day

The legend of Barbados

We perform Fajr Ṣalāh at Madina Masjid, where my father delivers a talk. Here, we meet the legend, the elderly Yāsīn Bhai, who distributes bread every morning for free, something he has been doing for more than ten years. He also visits the graveyard and spends 30-60 minutes by his wife’s grave, something he has been doing every day for ten years. A true legend. Later, he gifts $50 to me.

Later in the morning, we visit the beach and swim and also use the jet ski. On the way back, my phone battery dies, and we somehow manage to reach Masjid Noor and from there to Mawlānā Sirāj’s residence.

Lunch at Dr Muḥammad Shafīʿ Yūsuf Nagdī’s house

The afternoon lunch is at the residence of the late Dr Muḥammad Shafīʿ Yūsuf Nagdī (d. 1438/2017). Mawlānā ʿUmar, his son-in-law who was with us in Grenada is present as is Dr Nagdī’s son. Mawlānā ʿUmar mentions to me that he can never forget the favour of my father upon him, as he became the means for his admission into Darul Uloom Blackburn for the final Dawrat al-Ḥadīth year.

Arrival of Mufti ʿAffān Manṣūrpūrī

Later in the afternoon, Mufti ʿAffān Manṣūrpūrī arrives from England. He is the maternal grandson of Shaykh al-Islam Mawlānā Ḥusayn Aḥmad Madanī (d. 1377/1957), and the younger brother of Mufti Salmān Manṣūrpūrī (b. 1386/1967). He is currently the Shaykh al-Ḥadīth in the famous Shāhī seminary in Moradabad, India. He is currently on a visit to the UK and is scheduled to deliver the final Ṣaḥīḥ al-Bukhārī lesson at Darul Uloom Blackburn this coming Sunday. My respected father suggested to Mawlānā Sirāj Ṣāḥib to invite him to Barbados. Previously, I met him briefly at the residence of Mawlānā Maḥmūd Madanī in Deoband, in February 2021, as mentioned in my travelogue of that journey.

My respected father provides an overview of Barbados and the region and its history to Mufti ʿAffān, highlighting the oppression of the French and British colonialists. He mentions the story of the person who was burnt alive just so that the brain could be used to burn the lamp and highlights how so many people were thrown in the water. In terms of the current demographic of Muslims, there are 4000 Muslims in Barbados, of which there are approximately 70 scholars and more than 200 Ḥuffāẓ. Mufti ʿAffān is also amazed at the fact that Deysī chickens roam around the streets of Barbados and they are free, yet people do not generally eat them.

Dinner with local scholars

We eat dinner at the residence of Mawlānā Sirāj Ṣāḥib after Magrib Ṣalāh. Many of the local scholars are also present including Mawlānā ʿAbdullāh Collector and Mawlānā Muḥammad Chothia who kindly gifts me some of his publications. Many issues are discussed. My respected father mentions at one point, “There is a lot of ghluww (exaggeration) nowadays in relation to one’s Shaykh or one’s teacher. I have had cases where the girl says my Shaykh will perform the Nikāḥ and the boy says that my Shaykh will perform the Nikāḥ. This Guluww did not exist in the Prophetic era. Once in Blackburn, there was a Janāzah Ṣalāh scheduled at 4.30pm. I teach until 4pm and thereafter at 5pm. I thought I will partake in Janāzah Ṣalāh and then return immediately to avoid missing my class. However, the Janāzah Ṣalāh did not commence because someone’s Shaykh was delayed and it was delayed for the next 30 minutes. This is Guluww. Everyone is being inconvenienced because of one person who is not even from the close family members of the deceased.”

Evening programme

We perform ʿIshāʾ Ṣalāh at Masjid Nūr after which the evening programme commences. The hosts request me to discuss the plight of Masjid al-Aqsa and Palestine. This is followed by Mufti ʿAffān Ṣāḥib’s first lecture in this part of the world. He is eloquent and has excellent command of Urdu.

We return to Mawlānā Sirāj’s residence. Mawlānā Junayd requests us to sign the graduation certificates and informs my respected father that he had initially requested Shaykh al-Ḥadīth Mufti Aḥmad Khānpūrī (b. 1365/1946) to attend the graduation. Mufti Ṣāḥib excused himself due to his health and suggested to them to invite my respected father.

Day 6 – Tuesday 16 July 2024

Another legend of Barbados who turns 100 tomorrow

Morning programme at Markaz Dawatul Haq

We perform Fajr Ṣalāh at Markaz Dawatul Haq, run by Mufti Saʿīd Adam Ṣāḥib who enjoys a good relationship with my father. The institute manages ʿĀlim classes for boys and girls. Mufti ʿAffān Ṣāḥib delivers some advices for the students. This is followed by a lesson on Shamāʾil Tirmidhī by my respected father who sheds light on the significance of this book.

We return to Mawlānā Sirāj’s residence and go to the beach with Mufti ʿAffān Ṣāḥib. He is mesmerised and expresses a desire to learn how to swim. He also sits behind me on the jet ski and enjoys the ride.

Meeting Mawlānā Yūsuf Pīprāwālā

After Ẓuhr Ṣalāh, we meet with Mawlānā Yūsuf Pīprāwālā who was born on 17 July 1924 (15 Dhū al-Ḥijjah 1342). Tomorrow, he turns 100 according to the Gregorian calendar, he is already 103 based on the lunar calendar. He graduated from Dabhel, India in 1948 (1368) as outlined in my earlier travelogue. My father asks him about his journey from India to Barbados. He explains that he travelled in 1965 via plane to the UK, resided at his brother’s residence for two weeks, and thereafter travelled to Barbados and championed the work of Daʿwah. At that time, there were only 300 Muslims here. His migration to Barbados was at the instruction of Mawlānā Yūsuf Kāndhelwī (d. 1384/1965). When he arrived Barbados, information reached him that he had passed away. Prior to his arrival, four other scholars had arrived here but were impacted by the environment and had shaved their beards. Mawlānā Yūsuf Kāndhelwī had instructed him to stay as a Dāʿī to preserve his identity.

My respected father requests him for Ijāzah in Ḥadīth. He refuses explaining that he is not worthy of that, a sign of his humility. My father also requests him to partake in the Ṣaḥīḥ al-Bukhārī completion later in the evening. He excuses himself based on his urine problem adding that he will try. It is remarkable that at this age, his memory is good.

I tweet about Mawlānā and receive a message from Mawlānā Luqmān Hānsrot of London that his 83-year-old father Mawlānā Muḥammad Qāsim Hānsrot finished Quran Ḥifẓ by Mawlānā Yūsuf Piprāwālā in Dhabel at the age of 10, adding that his father recites the full Quran daily and sometimes over two days. He is a disciple of Mawlānā Kifāyatullāh Pālanpūrī (who was short) and his teachers also include the late Mawlānā Yaʿqūb Qāsmī (d. 1444/2022) of Dewsbury.

Likewise, Mawlānā Hārūn Anīs of London shares with me the list of the scholars who graduated from Dabhel in 1368, from Tārīkh Jāmiʿah (2: 552) by Mawlānā Faḍlurraḥmān Aʿẓamī Ṣāḥib (b. 1356/1946). Mawlānā is mentioned therein as having attained second position in his class with the examination marks for each of the books of the final year.

Later, Mawlānā Sirāj Ṣāḥib sends me an article regarding him written by Shabbir Nakhuda, which is presented here with some minor edits:

Barbados’ first Muslim Gujarati East-Indian Centenarian

Maulana Yusuf Piprawala was born in the village of Kapletha, District Surat, Gujarat, India, according to his official documents, on July 17, 1924. His father’s name, Hafez Mahmood and his mother’s name Hawabu. His father despite not being a hafiz (memorizer of the Holy Quran), knew the Holy Quran very well and taught at madrassah in the villages of Dummas and Lajpur for many years.

Maulana Yusuf received his early education, both secular and religious, in Kapletha. At the age of 16, he went to Darul Uloom (religious school) in the village of Dabhel where he studied under Maulana Yusuf Binori Saheb. He graduated from Darul Uloom on the 21 January 1948. He taught at Kapletha Madrasah for 4 years. Thereafter, he taught Hifz (memorization) classes at Darul Uloom Dabhel for another 4 years before returning to Kapletha to work on the family land.

Maulana Moosa Samrodia regularly invited Maulana Yusuf to join the Tabligh Jamaat (group), but the opportunity never presented itself until one day Maulana and his 3 friends went to Navsari, a nearby town. While there they attended Jumuah Masjid for Isha prayers, where Maulana Umar Palanpuri and Qazi Abdul Wahhab Saheb had brought the Tabligh Jamaat from Bombay. After Isha, Qazi Abdul Wahhab gave such an inspirational talk on going out in Jamaat that it prompted Maulana Yusuf to give his name to go out with the Tabligh Jamaat for 40 days (chillah). At the age of 30, he started on his first Tabligh mission in Ramadan from the Markaz (Tabligh Headquarters) in Delhi to the mountainous Mewat region

Maulana Yusuf came to Barbados in March 1965 upon the invitation of his brother Saeed Piprawala. He came to take up the position of Imam of Jama Masjid and Ustadh (teacher) at Madrasah Quwwatul Islam, both on Kensington New Road, Fontabelle. He could not afford to live on his own, so his brother Saeed provided free boarding and lodging for 9 years. In 1974, he received his Barbados citizenship and 2 years later his wife and children came from India to Barbados to join him.

He introduced the work of the Tabligh Jamaat to the Muslims in Barbados who had no previous knowledge of it. After two years, he started Gasht (visiting individuals), at their homes after Maghreb salat on Wednesdays and Thursdays to invite them to come for Esha salat and to stay for the Bayan (talk). His bayans were intense, inspiring and thought provoking impacting the Muslim community and resulting in them changing their lives, becoming better Muslims. Having established the foundation of Tabligh in Barbados, it was decided that the work of the jamaat should spread to other countries of the Caribbean and South America. In September 1968, Maulana Yusuf headed the first 15-member jamaat to Guyana and Suriname via Trinidad for 40 days.

Maulana Yusuf provided the impetus for Muslims to connect with the Masjid, where one’s spirituality can be revived and maintained. He connected Muslims to the Sunnah of the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) in every aspect of their life. In the beginning he faced many difficulties, but he was focused on his mission, in which he was successful. According to his son Mufti Bashir, “Maulana Yusuf is a kind and gentle father but very strict when it has to do with the work of Tabligh Jamaat. There was no electricity in Kapletha when we were growing up so we would light a kerosene lamp and sit in a circle while my father would teach us our deen (religion). He was very punctual in performing his five daily salaat and made sure we did the same.”

Maulana Yusuf was the Imam of Jama Masjid for 15 years and a teacher at Madrasah Quwwatul Islam for 40 years. Throughout his teaching career, scores of Muslim children in Barbados learnt under his tutelage. Over his many years of service to the Muslim community of Barbados, Maulana Yusuf conducted many nikahs (marriages), gave numerous bayans (lectures), and led many janazahs (funeral prayers). At his age, he continues to offer advice and guidance to Muslims.

Jama Masjid and its jamaat honoured Maulana Yusuf for his many years of service to the Masjid and the community.

Maulana Yusuf Piprawala, 100 years old today. May Almighty Allah continue to bless him with strong Iman and health. May Almighty Allah accept all his deeds in the path of Islam, forgive his shortcomings and grant him all that is good in this world and the greatest reward in the hereafter, Jannat-ul-Firdaws.

Some other meetings

We take leave from Mawlānā Yūsuf Ṣāḥib, and meet Mawlānā’s son in law, ʿAllāmah Rafīq Ṣāḥib at his residence opposite. He is a long-standing Imam of Barbados. He enjoys a good relationship with my respected father.

We also visit Mawlānā Yūsuf Rājā’s father at his home. Mawlānā Yūsuf lives in Blackburn UK and is married to my cousin sister.

Sirājul ʿUlūm Institute’s Graduation Programme

The main reason for visiting Barbados is to partake in Sirājul ʿUlūm Institute’s graduation programme. Two male and two female students are graduating today.

We perform ʿAṣr Ṣalāh at Makki Masjid, a Masjid which I did not visit in my earlier journey two years ago. After Ṣalāh, the first part of the programme commences with an Urdu speech by Mufti ʿAffān Ṣāḥib. I am requested thereafter to deliver a talk in English on the life of Imam Bukhārī (d. 256/870).

Magrib Ṣalāh takes place and thereafter my respected father begins the final lesson of Ṣaḥīḥ al-Bukhārī. Shaykh al-Ḥadīth Mufti Ismāʿīl Kacholwī (b. 1362/1943), the disciple of Shaykh al-Ḥadīth Mawlānā Muḥammad Zakariyyā Kāndhelwī (d. 1402/1982) is present and sits throughout the lesson. This is his humility. He refused earlier to undertake the final lesson and agreed to conduct the final Duʿāʾ. My respected father begins with the Musalsal bi al-Awwaliyyah narration and also the Musalsal bi al-Maḥabbah narrations and requests Mufti Ismāʿīl Kacholwī Ṣāḥib to grant ijāzah in these two Ḥadīths, which he kindly does. The final lesson of Ṣaḥīḥ al-Bukhārī commences thereafter. My father mentions:

“Ṣaḥīḥ al-Bukhārī has the fortune of being read in its entirety within the Kaʿbah by ʿAllāmah Ibn ʿAllān.”

He also says, “I regard everyone superior to me, and therefore I perform Ṣalāh behind everyone.”

The final lesson ends at approximately 7.45pm and the final Duʿāʾ is undertaken by Mufti Ismāʿīl Ṣāḥib. One of the Sirājul ʿUlūm Institute’s graduating student’s Nikāḥ is taking place today, which is undertaken by Mufti ʿAffān Ṣāḥib.

Return to the UK

I exit the Makki Masjid as the Nikāḥ Khuṭbah begins, because my flight is at 10.30pm. Mawlānā ʿUmar kindly drops me to the Airport. He has been extremely helpful and hospitable over the past few days. Allah Almighty reward him, Mawlānā Sirāj Ṣāḥib, Mawlānā Junayd Ṣāḥib, Mawlānā Muḥammad Chothia Ṣāḥib, Mufti Saʿīd Ṣāḥib, Mawlānā ʿAbdullāh Collector Ṣāḥib and all the other local scholars, students and colleagues for their affection and hospitality. I arrive into London Heathrow at 11.30am and take the underground to London Euston and from there the train to Preston. My parents and Mufti ʿAffān Ṣāḥib return to the UK two days later.

May Allah Almighty preserve the faith and dignity of our brothers and sisters in the West Indies and spread Islam there. Āmīn.

Yusuf Shabbir

22 Muḥarram 1446 / 28 July 2024

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