Unique journey to Chitral, Pakistan (Feb 2025)
In the Name of Allah, the Merciful, the Beneficent
Introduction
Three days ago, a very close family friend phoned me requesting me to join him on a trip to Pakistan to visit some charitable programmes he is supporting via Global Reach, a charity run by my dear friend, brother Abdul Salam of Derby. Prior to this, brother Abdul Salam had also requested me a few times to visit Pakistan and in particular Balochistan and Chitral, and I promised him that I will visit both regions at some point. I apply for the Pakistan Visa Prior to Arrival through the Nadra online portal for free, and the visa comes through within 24 hours.
Stopover in Bahrain
I depart on Thursday 20 February 2025 from Manchester Airport on the 10.25am Gulf Air flight which arrives into Bahrain International Airport shortly before 8pm. As my onward flight to Karachi is at 1.05am, I enter the country. The cost of visa on arrival is 5 Bahraini Dinars (£10). The Bahraini currency is strong. The immigration officer is friendly. This is my first time in Bahrain making it the 54th country I am visiting, al-Ḥamdulillāḥ.
The country comprises a small archipelago made up of 50 natural islands and an additional 33 artificial islands, centred on the main Bahrain Island which makes up 83% percent of the country’s landmass. It is situated in the Persian Gulf, between Qatar and the north-eastern coast of Saudi Arabia, to which it is connected by the King Fahd Causeway. Its size is 290 square miles, making it the third-smallest nation in Asia after the Maldives and Singapore. Its population exceeds 1.5 million people, with an approximately equal split between Bahraini citizens and non-Bahrainis. The capital and largest city is Manama.
Mufti Nadim receives me at the Airport. He is originally from India and graduated from the famous seminary in Dabhel, Gujarat. He has been serving as Imam here for more than a decade. He also does some work for Accounting and Auditing Organization for Islamic Financial Institutions (AAOIFI), an organisation established to maintain and promote Shariah standards for Islamic financial institutions. I contacted him yesterday, and he very kindly collects me from the Airport and gives me a tour of the major landmarks of the country, including the beautiful Al Fateh Grand Mosque.
He is very generous and welcoming and it feels as though we have known each other for a long time. He is extremely concerned about the situation of the Ummah. We eat dinner at a local restaurant and also visit the old town of Manama. Shaykh Nizam Yaquby’s family business shop is located here, he is currently abroad. Mufti Ṣāḥib then drops me to the Airport and I board the flight to Karachi where I arrive at 5.40am.
Karachi
This is my fourth trip to Karachi, having visited in 2019, 2021 and 2023, details of which have been outlined in earlier travelogues. After resting at the Embassy Inn and performing Jumuʿah Ṣalāh, we make a short visit to Darul Uloom Karachi where we meet with my dear friend, Mawlānā Abdullah Usmani, the grandson of our respected Shaykh al-Islam Mufti Muhammad Taqi Usmani who is currently abroad. Brother Amir Bashir is accompanying me; he has travelled from Balochistan today. He is originally from Abbottabad and works as a manager in a large cement factory in Balochistan. He also works for Global Reach and manages all the programmes in Balochistan.
Later in the evening, I meet with our family friend as well as Dr Farook of Karachi who specialises in diabetes. We discuss the plan for the visit to Balochistan as well as Chitral subject to weather conditions. My friend then informs us that Dr Zakir Naik wishes to meet him and that he is residing in the same Movenpick Hotel. This is my first meeting with Dr Zakir Naik. Allah Almighty has blessed him with a mastery of debate and knowledge of different world religions and many people have accepted Islam through his efforts. The meeting lasts for more than an hour and provides an insight into the life and personality of Dr Zakir Naik. He is simple, humble and down to earth. He travels in economy class and lives a modest life. He encourages his children and others to allocate at least 51% of the profits in their business to good causes, and thereby make Allah Almighty the greatest shareholder. He stresses that businessmen should allocate a fixed percentage of their profits for charitable causes in advance. He desists extravagance and prefers abstinence. He has allocated his life to serve the Dīn and only spends a few days a month on his business. He discusses his migration to Malaysia and how his work has now become global. He mentions his efforts to assist Mawlānā Kalīm Ṣiddīqī who is currently incarcerated in India. He stresses the importance of unity and how his state sponsored visit to Pakistan a few weeks ago for a month was beneficial in this regard. Aside from his vast knowledge and work in the field of Dawah, and the controversies sometimes his views generate, these personal traits of sincerity, simplicity, devotion, sacrifice and standing up for the truth against oppressors are traits that reflect the Prophetic Sunnah.
Day trip to Balochistan
The following morning on Saturday 22 February, brother Amir collects me from the Movenpick hotel at 7.30am and we depart for Balochistan. We make a brief stop at the cement factory where brother Amir works and thereafter head to Wada Bagh in the Bela district of Balochistan, where we arrive at 11.30am. The distance between Karachi and Bela is 200km and the journey on the N25 road takes nearly four hours. There are several checkpoints on the way, due to the security situation in Balochistan. The weather is hot, approximately 30 degrees Celsius. Brother Amir explains that Global Reach has been working in this region as it is a very deprived area.
Our first stop is at a recently built house (GR-0227) by Global Reach for Fahmida Bibi, a 60-year-old widow whose husband passed away more than a decade ago. She has three sons and three daughters. The sons work in a field and earn between 10,000 PKR (£28) to 15,000 PKR (£42) per month, whilst the mother works as a cleaner earning 2,000 PKR (£5.60). Previously, she and her children were living in a house made of straw which would make it extremely difficult to sleep especially during the rainy season.
Global Reach has built her this house comprising of two large rooms, a small store room, a small kitchen and an external toilet, all at a cost of 800,000 PKR (£2,250).
One of the rooms of this house is also used as the venue for Islamic classes for the ladies. Global Reach has recruited a qualified female scholar who teaches up to 50 females twice a week. Religious illiteracy is a challenge in this region.
In the same village, we also visit three other houses built by Global Reach for three other widows. They belong to Azaan Bibi (GR-0160), Hashi Bibi (GR-0166) and Aami Bibi (GR-0167). These widows are extremely grateful for the houses provided to them.
Global Reach has thus far built 253 houses throughout Pakistan, 38 of which are located in Balochistan. The beauty of the programme is that the cost is nominal, the cost of a two-room house is £2,250 and sometimes if there is only one widow, then the cost for a one room house is half this amount. Two of the four houses we visited were of this category. The houses are provided water as well as solar for electricity. In this village, instead of digging a water well, a concrete tank was built and pipes installed underground to bring in water from a natural reservoir situated 2km away. The total cost of this was £2500 and this now provides water to the whole village of 60 homes and 300 residents. Before this facility was built, the people were using donkey carts to transport the water and also walking on foot.
Before departing from Wada Bagh, we gather 37 widows and poor ladies of the village and distribute 5,000 PKR (£14) each to them.
We are now heading back on the N25 road to Karachi. Our next stop is Ramzan Goth village, in the district of Winder in Balochistan, approximately two hours from Karachi. Here, Global Reach has built five houses. They belong to the following four widows Basran Bibi (GR-0082), Rahima Bibi (GR-0220), Naz Bibi (GR-0218) and Sakina Bibi (GR-0221) and an elderly person, Khairullah (GR-0219).
The first house of Basran Bibi is also home to her disabled blind brother Yousuf who cannot walk and has severe mobility problems. The £2,250 house built two years ago has made a huge difference to their lives. In this village, we also meet with Mawlānā Ghulam Qadir who is employed by Global Reach to teach children Islamic education. We also come across a family that was given four goats recently and one of them has given birth making the total five.
Our final stop after a further 40km drive is Lotari in the Chechai area of Balochistan, a few kilometres behind the factory where brother Amir works. Global Reach has constructed a water borehole here (GR-BAL-Water-24). There are 24 similar water boreholes in Balochistan. This particular one was dug 150 feet deep and includes a solar system enabling supply of water throughout the day. This is connected with a PVC storage tank which has a capacity of 2000 litres. The total cost of this was £1,500 and it serves 50 houses nearby as well as those who are passing by.
We return to Karachi by the evening and eat dinner at the famous Kolachi restaurant on the ocean. Aside from the excellent food, the ocean view is breathtaking.
Pakistan generally is famous for its cuisine and restaurants. Yesterday, brother Amir took me to the Mizaaj restaurant. Dieting during a trip to Pakistan is not helpful. We return to the hotel, meet with colleagues and rest for the evening.
Reflecting on the day’s visit, two aspects shine out from Global Reach’s work. The first is the cheap cost and value for money, and the second is reaching impoverished people in remote areas far from the large cities. There are many charities that work in and around large cities, but not many operate in remote areas. Allah Almighty accept the efforts of all involved. The only observation I have is to provide some furniture and beds as part of the homes. This would incur some additional cost but add a lot of value and comfort.
Meeting Mufti Muhammad Taqi Usmani and travel to Islamabad
The following day on Sunday 23 February, I visit Darul Uloom Karachi to meet with our respected Shaykh al-Islam Mufti Muhammad Taqi Usmani who was abroad and arrived yesterday. I gift him my recently published book al-Ṣilah fī Qawl al-Tirmidhī wa fī al-Ḥadīth Qiṣṣah, some copies of which I had only received a few days before departing.
I also meet with my dear friend, Mawlānā Anas ibn Mawlānā ʿĀdil Khan Ṣāḥib, who is meeting with Mufti Ṣāḥib on Wifaqul Madaris related matters. Thereafter, I meet with Mufti Ṣāḥib’s brother-in-law, Mawlānā ʿAẓīzurraḥman and his son, Mawlānā ʿAdnān, and discuss many issues including the situation in Palestine. We also visit some of the bookshops and take note of many publications authored by Mawlānā Muḥammad Nuʿmān Ṣāḥib of the Binori Town seminary including an encyclopaedic work on Ḥadīth books.
Mawlānā Zamīr kindly drops me to the Airport and I board the 7pm Air Sial flight to Islamabad where I arrive at 9pm. Brother Muhammad Naeem, the main coordinator for Global Reach, kindly collects me and takes me to eat dinner, and then to the Serena Hotel, booked for cheap by my brother’s friend. There are many road blocks, and the security presence is high because the Pakistani cricket team is staying here tomorrow.
Fazilia Trust Pakistan’s work with Palestinian medical students
There are several meetings and visits planned today, Monday 24 February, in and around Islamabad. The first is with Fazilia Trust Pakistan (FTP), we arrive at their Head Office at 10.15am and meet with Major Raja Mumtaz Hassan Siddiq, the founder and CEO, who explains that the Trust was established in 1993 and has an annual budget of approximately £500,000.
One of the main donors and partners of the Trust is the UK based Global Relief Trust (GRT). Recently, the two charities alongside the UK based Doctors of Rahman have embarked on a unique project of bringing Gazan medical students to Pakistan and supporting them complete their medical degree. Alkhidmat Foundation of Pakistan is also involved and the Government of Pakistan has also helped facilitate this. The delivery partner on the ground is Fazilia Trust Pakistan. Thus far, there are 145 Palestinian students in Islamabad and 27 students in Lahore. All the students are from Gaza, and 95% travelled via Egypt. The majority are in their fourth and fifth year of medical studies. The students are divided among various Government and private universities. There is no cost of tuition fees, however the accommodation and stipend costs total to £4600 per student per annum. This is funded via the aforementioned charities of Pakistan and the UK.
After meeting with Major Mumtaz and his team, we travel together to one of the universities, Shifa Tameer-e-Millat University, Islamabad and meet with some of the 33 Palestinian students enrolled here in the fourth, fifth and sixth years of the MBBS programme. We also meet with the Registrar Dr Hameed Mumtaz Durrani who explains that this private university is not charging any tuition fees to the Palestinian students, which otherwise costs 2 million rupees (£5,625) per annum. The university serves 4,000 students and also runs a hospital. The Pakistani authorities and universities deserve credit for supporting this cause.
Rawalpindi Medical University
Our next stop at 12.45pm is the Rawalpindi Medical University (RMU), where we are welcomed by Dr Ifra Saeed, one of the professors and a co-chair of the scholarship committee. The university serves 1,700 students and also serves some of the Palestinian students mentioned above. Our purpose however of visiting is that some friends are providing scholarships to 100 Pakistani medical students at this and other universities via the UK based charity FAMS (Financial Assistance for Medical Students). We meet with some of the staff and students from the second year and tour parts of the campus.
Global Reach programmes in Islamabad
Our next stop with brother Naeem is the office of the Message Welfare Society in Rawalpindi. This is a small charity run by brother Asif who resides in Luton, UK and works in partnership with Global Reach. Its annual income is £15,000, the majority of which is spent on food kits.
We then travel to Kot Najibullah in the Haripur district, which is 100km from Islamabad if travelling via the M-1 motorway. Global Reach has purchased land here for 300,000 PKR (£845) and is constructing eleven houses, four of which are complete and the foundation is done for the other seven. The construction will finish in two months after which the beneficiaries will move in.
We also visit a house (GR-0137) nearby which was constructed by Global Reach for Resham Jan, a widow whose husband passed away seventeen years ago. The house cost 900,000 PKR (£2,535). She is a cleaner and earns 9000 PKR (£25) a month. She has one son who repairs motorcycles.
We also visit the house of Gul Bibi, a widow who has three daughters, Global Reach built her house (GR-0061) for £2,500.
Hostel for Palestinian students in Rawalpindi
We start the return journey to Islamabad and perform Ṣalāh at a Masjid neighbouring a petrol pump, which is a cute small Masjid.
We arrive into Rawalpindi at 6pm and visit the hostel for the Palestinian students. We perform Maghrib Ṣalāh here. Major Mumtaz and his team have worked very hard to secure accommodation for the Palestinian students in one place and provide them with the necessary facilities including a canteen and gym. There are segregated facilities for the males and females, and there is also a Masjid within the complex and an Imam. We have a detailed discussion with some of the students and discuss ways in which their stay can be enhanced. Issues of discussion include their daily schedules, food, Urdu language, Islamic lessons, female prayer space and arrangements for Tarāwīḥ Ṣalāh in Ramadan. We also discuss the situation in Palestine and encourage them to attend the Masjid. Supporting these students and ensuring they complete their medical education is vital for the reconstruction of Gaza. May Allah reward all the charities and institutions involved in this noble cause.
Major Mumtaz kindly takes us out to the Shinwari restaurant famous for the Dam Pukht dish. I then rest at the Best Western Premier Hotel.
The ten-hour journey to Chitral begins
The following morning, Tuesday 25 February, we set off at 7.15am towards Chitral. I was in two minds about visiting Chitral because brother Abdul Salam and Mufti Atiq Ṣāḥib of Chitral had mentioned that sometimes the road closes in snowy conditions and people get stuck. The weather forecast is not promising but nevertheless we make the attempt. A young driver by the name of Zayn is driving us, and we are accompanied by Mawlānā Noor Shahideen of Chitral. Mawlānā Noor is a student and colleague of Mufti Atiq Ṣāḥib, who is the coordinator for Global Reach’s programmes in Chitral. He sent Mawlānā Noor to accompany me and made the correct choice for such a long journey. Mawlānā Noor studied his early Islamic education in Chitral and thereafter graduated from Jamia Ashrafia Lahore in 2018 after studying there for three years. He is humble, friendly and a good companion on a journey. The purpose of visiting Chitral is to gain a better understanding of the area, understand the needs of the people, interact with the scholars, and visit some of the programmes undertaken by Global Reach there. It is thus useful to begin by introducing Chitral town and Chitral district.
Chitral District
Chitral District was a district in the Malakand Division of the Pakistani province of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, from 14 August 1947 to 2018. It was the largest district in the Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa, covering an area of 14,850 square kilometres, before splitting into Upper and Lower Chitral Districts in 2018. The region was encompassed into West Pakistan in 1969.
The website for the Lower Chitral District Administration states,
“Chitral district is divided in two districts lower and upper Chitral by the government of KPK. Upper and Lower Chitral covers an area of 14,850 km². Chitral is located among Hindukush mountains in the northwest of Pakistan. Lower Chitral covers the area from Lowari to Barenis and Gobor in the Garam Chashma side. From onwards Barenis village, district Upper Chitral starts. The total population of Chitral (lower and upper) is 447,362. Chitral is bordered in the east with Gilgit-Baltistan, southeast Swat, north and north-east by China and the Wakhan corridor of Afghanistan. In the west are Nuristan and Kunar provinces of Afghanistan. In the south is situated Upper Dir district of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province. Chitral is gifted with mysterious and steep mountains, lush green valleys, beautiful meadows and huge glaciers. It is divided into over 35 small valleys. The highest peak in this range of Hindukush is Terichmir, 25,263 feet. No mountain here is less than 4,000 feet and over 40 peaks have an altitude of 20,000 feet. It lies at an elevation of 4,900 feet above sea level. The total area is 14,850 square kilometres. It is situated between 35 & 37 N latitude and 71 & 22 and 74 E longitude.”
It further states:
“The unique culture of Chitral, developed over many millennia with more than a dozen ethnic groups speaking as many languages, is closely linked to that of Central Asia and China instead of South Asia, according to a study conducted by International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN). It says that arts and crafts, traditional costumes, food and beverages, local games, music, dance, folksongs and legendary sites form the main components of the cultural heritage of Chitral. The study also includes the historic military sites and indigenous tribes (Kalash) in the ingredients of cultural heritage. ‘Chitral’s artisans manufacture a wide range of elegant and delicately crafted jewellery, woodwork and embroidery, woven and knitted textiles’ the study says, adding that clay, wood, stone, bone, animal skin and copper are the material most commonly used. The woolen fabric of Chitral, locally called Shu, and walnut-wood furniture are popular in handicraft markets throughout the country. The study adds that traditional clothes, including that of Kalash people, are made from wool and silk and decorated with beads and shells. Traditional cap (Khapol) and gown (Chugha) are popular while the typical Chitrali shoes (Khon) resemble the long riding boots.”
It further states,
“The study says that Chitral is home to several preserved forts, fortresses and towers from a more recent era and the ruins of forts dating back to the fourth and fifty centuries BC are also found here. Traditional Chitrali buildings are embellished with wood carvings and have been designed keeping in view the climatic and local environmental conditions of the area.”
Chitral
Chitral is a city situated on the Chitral River in the northern area of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province. It serves as the capital of the Lower Chitral District, and was previously the capital of Chitral District, and before that the capital of Chitral princely state. Its population is approximately 50,000 and its official language is Urdu, although Khowar is the main spoken language.
The Encyclopaedia Britannica states,
“Chitral, town, northern Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province, Pakistan. The town lies along the Kunar River (also known as the Chitral River) in a valley 2 miles (3 km) wide, at an elevation of about 4,900 feet (1,490 metres) above sea level. Chitral has a government woolen and sericulture centre, the fort of the former chieftain, a polo ground, and fruit gardens in the neighbourhood. It is accessible via several mountain passes and is linked with Peshawar by air. The local inhabitants were converted to Islam in the 11th century. A significant portion are members of the Ismāʿīlī sect. Prior to the 19th century, Chitral was a centre for slave trade in the region. Khowar, the language of the Khos, the dominant tribe in the locality, is the lingua franca. The Chitralis are fine horsemen and excel at the game of polo. The surrounding area is a scenic region of lofty ranges (Tirich Mir; 25,230 feet [7,690 metres]), fertile valleys, and rich pine forests. It is drained by the Kunar River. Wheat, barley, corn (maize), and rice are the chief crops in the area, and walnuts, grapes, apricots, and mulberries are also grown.”
Route to Chitral
We are now on the M-1 motorway from Islamabad towards Mardan and Peshawar. The distance between Islamabad and Chitral town is 400km. The first half of the journey until the Swat region is covered in two hours as there is a good motorway until then, first the M-1 and thereafter the M-16. However, the road thereafter is a single road all the way to Chitral, crossing through busy villages and towns and the various ascents and descents on the mountains. There are currently no flights operating to Chitral. Sometimes in the summer, flights operate for tourists. Thus, the remainder 200km is expected to take at least eight hours to cover.
Strange customs of the Kalashi people
During the journey, I ask Mawlānā Noor to shed some light on Chitral, he explains:
“65% of the people of Chitral district are Muslims and up to one third are Aga Khani (Ismāʿīlīs), whilst a small percentage 1-2%, a few thousand people, are from the Kalash tribe. Chitral is famous because of them, they are regarded to be an ancient pagan tribe. They have some strange customs, myths and superstitions. There are only a few thousand of them predominantly living in the Bumburet, Rumbur, and Birir valleys of Chitral. They do not worship at all. During menses and post-natal bleeding, the females cannot stay in their own homes and cannot be touched by others. There are dedicated government hostels for them where they reside, family members will drop off food for them from the outside. They have an open drinking culture. If a married girl decides to marry someone else, the court will allow the second marriage irrespective of the first husband’s view. If a girl from them wishes to marry a Muslim man, she will elope, become a Muslim and thereafter undertake Nikāḥ. This is something that does happen. Some people suggest that the ancestors of the Chitrali people reach the Kalashi tribes.”
As my time is limited and the weather conditions are also not favourable, it looks unlikely we will be able to visit the valleys where they reside.
The 10km tunnel at Lowari Pass
At 2.30pm, we arrive at the Lowari Pass tunnel and there is heavy snow.
The trucks are doing their work removing the snow and keeping the roads clear. This point known as the Lowari Top is one of the four major mountain passes to enter Chitral. The others are Dorah Pass from Badakhshan in Afghanistan, Shandur Top from Gilgit and Broghol from the Wakhan Corridor in Afghanistan. This Lowari Top route is the most popular because it is shortest route from Chitral to Peshawar. The other way would be down the Kunar River to Jalalabad in Afghanistan and re-entering Pakistan via the Torkham border. The alternative is the much longer route via the Shandur Top.
There is now a tunnel built here comprising of 8.5 kilometres and a further short tunnel of 1.5km. Mawlānā Noor explains,
“This tunnel was built by a South Korean company and opened a few years ago. It reduces the journey by a few hours. Prior to this, during the winter season, Chitral would be cut off from the rest of Pakistan. It was extremely dangerous to ascend the mountain to reach the other side. So many people have died on these mountains. Some people would be blown away, whilst some would pass away whilst freezing on the mountain in a standing position. They would be rescued after several weeks and sometimes months. Even today, despite the tunnel, the road often closes in December and January. There also risks posed by avalanches, which can occur abruptly without any warning.”
It is difficult to imagine how people coped in previous times when there was no tunnel and limited modes of transport.
The Afghan border crossing
The route when ascending to and descending from the Lowari Top is very scenic with snowy mountains and beautiful rivers and water gushing from the mountains.
Beautiful scenic views on route to Chitral, North Pakistan pic.twitter.com/6K8af9xCXO
— Dr Yusuf Shabbir (@ibn_shabbir) March 9, 2025
As we descend, we pass the interchange from where there is a route to the Pakistan-Afghanistan border crossing near the town of Arandu. When the Lowry Tunnel was not built, this route was used by the residents of Chitral to travel to Jalalabad in Afghanistan and thereafter re-enter Afghanistan via the Torkham crossing. Interestingly, there is a lot of cross border smuggling that takes place. Cars are brought in from Afghanistan duty-free, there is a lot of duty otherwise on cars in Pakistan. Animals are also cheaper in Afghanistan.
We continue our journey north and stop for Ṣalāh at a Masjid neighbouring a petrol pump in Drosh. The single roads are good in some places and broken in other places. The famous wood of Chitral is on display in the Masjid.
Global Reach programmes
Mawlānā Noor updates me on the activities of Global Reach in the Chitral region. The charity is involved in the construction of homes, supporting the construction of Masjids primarily via materials, providing sponsorship for Hajj, construction of Islamic learning centres, water projects, and solarisation of Masjids, orphanages and Islamic centres. I suggest to Mawlānā that given our limited time we should visit some projects on our way to Chitral town.
Ayun
Our first stop at 5.20pm is Ayun, thirty minutes (20km) before Chitral town.
Breathtaking views of River Chitral before reaching Chitral town, after a ten hour drive from Islamabad pic.twitter.com/KlED7JCsKu
— Dr Yusuf Shabbir (@ibn_shabbir) March 9, 2025
It is very scenic here with snowy mountains and the River Chitral flowing in the valley.
Mufti Atiq Ṣāḥib has arrived here. He mentions that Chitral attracts global attention and also from the Pakistani Government due to the Kalashi people. They claim to have historical and perhaps ancestral links with the Greeks, so many Greek organisations provide funding to them. The other large group here is the Ismāʿīlīs who are much more organised and very strong financially.
The reason for stopping at Ayun and crossing the bridge over River Chitral is that Global Reach has built a house (GR-0146) here for a widow Rubina Bibi who lives here with two daughters. Her husband was killed 16-17 years ago. The house construction was completed in December 2024 at a total cost of 654,000 PKR (£1,825). We have to ascend part of a mountain on foot to reach the house.
Projects in Broze and nearby areas
Our next stop at 6.10pm is Broze, where we visit the house of a widow Shakilah Nas and her four daughters. It is a ten-minute walk from the main road. These orphan children are now living with their grandmother because their mother re-married and is living elsewhere. As the land was large, the charity provided 350,000 PKR (£1000) to finish the construction in a part of the large premise.
We then visit four other projects nearby where Global Reach has provided some funding. The first is a water borehole in Broze Kore, that is now providing water to 45 houses and also to the neighbouring Masjid Abu Bakr. The total cost of the borehole which was dug 165 feet was 800,000 PKR (£2,235). The digging was manual. Interestingly, in the summer, cold water comes out from the well, and the winter, the water is relatively warm. This is in sharp contrast to the water that comes from the mountains and the rivers which in this season is extremely cold and is generally not consumable. Subḥānallah!
The second project we visit at 6.35pm is Masjid Umar in Broze Kore, not far from the previous project. The charity built a water bore hole here on the other side of the road and also provided funding for some renovation (paint, carpets and fans). We meet with the Imam who confirms that there is no salary given to the Imam from the local community.
The third project we visit is Madrasah Hafsah Lil Banat in Joti Lasht near the previous location. Global Reach built this Madrasah for 1.1 million PKR (£3,070), providing funding for the construction materials. The labour was undertaken by the local community for free. The Madrasah provides Islamic classes to forty young girls who attend in the afternoon. There are also classes for elderly females in the morning. The female teacher renders her teaching service for free. This Madrasah is located adjacent to Masjid Mustajab, named after a graduate of Darul Uloom Deoband.
The final project we visit for the day is Jami Masjid al-Furqan, two minutes from the previous location. The Masjid structure was already built through local funds, and Global Reach provided 550,000 (£1,535) for some of the finishing work such as windows, plaster, paint and the carpet. We meet with the responsible person of the Masjid who donated the land for the Masjid and is involved with the work of Tablīgh, having travelled to Kenya also. He explains that 60 children attend the Quran classes. The Imam here receives 10,000 PKR (£28) per month from the local community for the teaching, but there is no remuneration for Ṣalāh. Along with the locals, the Masjid also serves travellers as it is located on the main road.
Entering Chitral
It is now 7pm and we are heading to Chitral town. There is not much to see at night. We check into the Legendary Hotel which is a clean modest hotel costing £25 per night in this season. There are electricity issues in this area but the hotel does have a generator. It is very cold although it is not as bad the cold of December and January. We eat dinner at Mufti Atiq Ṣāḥib’s residence, there are many items on the menu including the special Chitrali double roti with dry milk inside. The Chitrali cuisine is good because it does not contain many spices and is not heavy. Dudhi Halwa is also served which is beneficial in the cold.
We return to the hotel and rest for the evening. It has been a long day. The people of Chitral are very different to the Pashtuns in the neighbouring parts of the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province. They are soft, gentle and calm. The culture is also different and distinct, and generally the people are pro-establishment and happy with the area being part of Pakistan. They feel that the region would not have developed as much if it did not join Pakistan. It is also very safe here. People do not lock doors and business people will leave their carts on the roads overnight. The people are friendly, simple and content with what they have. They are also religious with emphasis on teaching the children the Quran and its translation including to females.
Snow overnight
We wake up the following morning, Wednesday 26 February, to heavy snowfall. It is thus necessary to purchase some shoes from a local shop in town.
Jamia Islamiyah Reyhankot
At 9.45am, we arrive at Jamia Islamiyah Reyhankot in Chitral town and meet with its founder Mawlānā Qārī Abdurrahman Qureshi, who is originally from Afghanistan and graduated from Jamia Ashrafia Lahore in 1989. He is friendly and dynamic and has three wives. Polygamy is not a custom in Chitral and he has been trying to convince his colleagues and students to no avail. There are many divorcees and widows in this region. This is the largest Islamic seminary in the Chitral region serving 350 students of which 160 are boarding students.
The education is until the penultimate year of Mishkāt al-Maṣābīḥ. I suggest to Mawlānā to begin the final year also. Space is a problem. Mawlānā suggests that there is a need to demolish the building and build a three-story building including the Masjid to cater for the additional needs, this would cost £300,000. This seminary is also the centre for Wifaqul Madaris examinations.
This seminary was established in 2001 under the instruction and guidance of the late Mawlānā Salimullah Khan (d. 1438/2017). Mawlānā also runs a similar Darul Uloom for 250 girls which includes the Dawrat al-Ḥadīth final year. It is currently holiday season so there are not many students around. Mawlānā Noor also studied here before completing in Lahore and Mufti Atiq Ṣāḥib also teaches here part time. The annual running cost of the seminary is £70,000. The funds are raised from within Pakistan. Staff have not been paid since November due to shortage of funds. There are 28 staff in total between the boys and girls’ seminaries. The starting salary is 20,000 PKR (£56) per month.
We sit in the library which has a good selection of Arabic and Urdu books. The Head Mufti, Mufti Gul Aziz is also present. He graduated from Darul Uloom Karachi and specialised in Iftāʾ under Mufti Rashid Ahmad Ludyanwi (d. 1422/2002). Breakfast is served. Dieting whilst in Pakistan is not a good idea. We gift all the teachers present 5,000 PKR (£14) and also donate 200,000 PKR (£560) towards the salaries shortfall.
Later, I am informed that this Darul Uloom is where the late Junaid Jamshed (d. 1438/2016) delivered his final talk before flying to Islamabad and passing away in the plane crash. Brother Junaid visited us in Blackburn many times and was an inspiration for many. Allah Almighty forgive his shortcomings and grant him an abode in Jannat al-Firdaws.
Government College Chitral
Our next stop at 11.20am is the Government College of Chitral. Mufti Atiq Ṣāḥib teaches here. Generally, the scholars in this region also work in colleges or schools as teachers of Islamic studies.
We are welcomed by Shakil Ahmad Khan, the Head of Computer Science who explains that the College serves 3,000 students.
Global Reach provided 3 million PKR (£8,375), half of the cost of the Masjid and also funded 2.5 million (£6,980) for the construction of two classrooms.
Although this is a government funded college, the Government only provides salaries. The staff request funding for computers and other resources.
Visit to some other projects
At midday, we visit a water borehole built by Global Reach near Masjid Abu Bakr al-Siddiq, at a cost of 240,000 (£670). This was also dug manually but only 90 feet; this is why it was cheap.
We also visit the house of Amna Bibi (GR-0145) whose husband, a Qārī Ṣāḥib passed away three years ago in a car accident. She lives with her two young sons and sells clothes. Her husband had established the walls of the house before his demise. Two years thereafter, Global Reach helped complete the construction of this house which cost 554,000 PKR (£1,550).
Nearby is a water tank which was built by Global Reach and connected with a water well nearby that was also solarised and connected to the tank. The well and the tank serve 60 houses nearby as well as the local Masjid which serves 300 houses. The total cost of the water tank and the solarisation was 500,000 PKR (£1,400).
We continue our ascent on the mountain and reach Dangkaringdeh where a Masjid is under construction. There are 72 houses in this vicinity in the outskirts of Chitral. The Masjid is being built via local funds and Global Reach has donated 712,000 PKR (£2,000). However, more funds are needed to complete the Masjid. The total cost exceeds £20,000. To make it ready to perform Ṣalāh, £2,000 is the shortfall.
The locals are currently performing Ṣalāh at Masjid nearby which is small and very old.
New Muslim couple Hajj sponsorship
We return to Chitral town and decide to do some shopping. The sun is out and the snow has started to melt. As we arrive, a revert couple from the Kalash tribe have also arrived. Global Reach is sponsoring them for Hajj this year along with two other couples, and due to time constraints, we decided to meet them here in Chitral town. Their story is fascinating. They travelled two hours to reach here. The husband Gulfam and his wife both accepted Islam two years ago and there are only two other Muslims in their area. When they accepted Islam, they went into hiding for one year in Chitral town! They are looking forward to their Hajj journey.
Shopping
Chitral is famous for many things. They include handmade pure woolen shawls, woolen caps, dry fruits, gems, carpets and honey. The famous fruits of Chitral are peach, apricot, damson, apple, pomegranate, grapes and pear. It is however currently not the season for fruits. We visit some shops and purchase some shawls, caps, dry fruit, saffron tea and honey. The vendor from whom we purchased the pure woolen shawls and caps has English customers in the UK to whom he exports. The cost of one shawl is 5,000 PKR (£14) which is much more expensive in the UK.
Generally, the people in the markets and shops are gentle. There is not much noise. It is calm and cool. There are hardly any beggars. There is discipline and principle. People are not greedy or sly. People are content with whatever they have and are honest. The vendor informs us that as it is not currently season, much of the nuts on display are from Afghanistan.
Qārī Nazir Ṣāḥib
At 2pm, we meet with Qārī Nazir Ahmad, who was funded to go for Hajj last year and is currently running a small Madrasah in Rumbur valley which is home to the Kalash people. His story is also fascinating. He has also travelled today for two hours to reach here. He is from the Kalash people and his father accepted Islam. In 2009, he started to operate a small Madrasah from a local Masjid. Subsequently, he started constructing a Madrasah in 2016 which was deliberately burnt down in 2018. There are 30 Muslim houses and 300 non-Muslim houses in the valley. He began the construction again and today al-Ḥamdulillāh, the Madrasah serves 19 girls in the ʿĀlim class programme which is currently until the fifth year and also has 38 students in the Ḥifẓ and Quran translation classes. A total of forty are boarding students. The total cost of the institute was 5 million PKR (£14,000) of which my friend and Global Reach donated 1.8 million PKR (£5,000). There are still 8.5 million PKR debts outstanding. Global Reach also donated 1.8 million PKR for the food for one year. The institute struggles to fund the salary costs. We give him 60,000 PKR (£166) to assist with the payment of salaries. Qārī Ṣāḥib mentions that the rate of the Kalashis converting to Islam has reduced in recent years.
Shahi Masjid
At 2.30pm, we arrive at the grand Shahi Masjid of Chitral, which is dazzling white. This is a historic mosque located on the bank of River Chitral adjacent to the Chitral Fort. The Mosque was built in 1924 by the ruler of the Princely state of Chitral, Shuja ul-Mulk, whose grave is located in the corner of the mosque.
As we enter the Mosque, there is a plaque on the wall in English and Urdu with history about the Masjid. It states that the construction of the Masjid began in 1919 and completed in 1924.
We are welcomed by Khaṭīb Khaleequzzamān who explains that Chitral state was previously a fully Islamic state. The state would fund Imams and judges, something that has symbolically continued even after Chitral joined Pakistan in 1969. He thus in his position as the main Khaṭīb of this Masjid receives 100 PKR (£0.28) a month. The teaching of Islamic education is strong in the schools and most scholars teach Islamic studies in local schools.
This Masjid is also home to Darul Uloom Arabia Islamia Chitral which has the full ʿĀlim class as well as the Ḥifẓ class. There are a total of 250 students including 90 boarding students. Interestingly, the Government pays for the salaries of the ʿAlim class teachers, between 25,000 (£70) to 100,000 PKR (£280) per month. The background to this is that this seminary was established by his father Mawlānā Ṣāḥibuzzamān who was a graduate of Darul Uloom Deoband and studied under the likes of Shaykh al-Islām Mawlānā Ḥusayn Aḥmad Madanī (d. 1377/1957). He established this seminary in 1946 which was formalised in 1952. At that time, Chitral was an independent Islamic state and the local Government insisted on funding the teachers. This funding continued after Chitral joined Pakistan, and there are two similar Darul Ulooms in Drosh and Swat that have a similar arrangement. The Government however does not pay for the facilities and other needs. He thus requests for a solar system for the Darul Uloom students to save cost and also make warm water accessible at all times.
Although it is currently holiday season, the Ḥifẓ classes are operating in the Masjid and today three students are receiving the certificate from Wifaqul Ulama. I am requested to hand out the certificates and also share some advice. Urdu is commonly understood here unlike many parts of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. It is remarkable that some children complete the Ḥifẓ in 18 months, some in 12 months and some have also completed in a few months. The memory of the Chitralis is strong and when completing Ḥifẓ, there is full focus. There is no hitting of children.
One thing I have noticed here among the scholars is that they get on with each other. There is good mutual coordination, respect and communication. On moonsighting, the Chitralis follow Islamabad.
Meeting widows
We depart from the Shahi Masjid, bid farewell to Qārī Nazir Ahmad and ascend to one of the areas in Chitral where some twenty widows have gathered. We distribute 5000 PKR (£14) each to them and thereafter take in the scenic views of Chitral and surrounding mountains.
Visit to Masjid Aqsa and inauguration of Madrasah Taybah
At 4.20pm, we perform Ṣalāh at Masjid Aqsa where Global Reach donated 95,000 PKR (£265) for the carpet.
Thereafter, we attend the inauguration of Madrasah Taybah nearby. This full building comprising of two classrooms and a bathroom was built by my friend via Global Reach and cost 900,000 PKR (£2,500). Many of the elders are present and are extremely appreciative.
The formal inauguration takes place with Duʿāʾ followed by a short meeting with the elders. The Madrasah serves 100 females and there are two female teachers. Allah Almighty accept this Madrasah and make it a beacon of knowledge and guidance.
Hamida Education and Boarding Academy (orphanage)
We depart from Madrasah Taybah and travel outside of the main town to Danin (Denin) to the north of the town. We are welcomed at the Hamida Education and Boarding Academy by Mawlānā Imaduddin, the founder.
This orphanage is home to fifty orphans who reside here. There are no education facilities here. They are transported to local schools for their education. This orphanage was established in 2016 by a Canadian lady of Sialkot who named the orphanage after her mother. Most orphans are from the Kalash and Ismāʿīlī families. Some also accept Islam. The orphanage is funded via location donations. There is no external support other than some support provided by Global Reach. The annual running cost is approximately £20,000 and there are some debts owed to local food suppliers. There are eight staff employed here. A request is also made for shoes and clothes for the children at the time of Eid, the cost is 5,000 PKR (£14) each.
Prior to touring the orphanage, Mufti Atiq invited up to 50 scholars and Imams of Chitral here so we can interact with them and also provide them with some financial support. We meet them first as many of them have to lead Maghrib Ṣalāh. Thereafter, we tour the orphanage, including the recently built Masjid on the third floor and the ongoing construction work of bedrooms on the second floor. The marble in the Masjid was donated by a local businessman who trades in marble. Chitral is famous for marble. Some debts are outstanding for some of the materials. Currently, the children reside in the basement.
It is quite cold here and the electricity has gone off. Mawlānā Imaduddin has arranged dinner here. The food is delicious. The Nāns deserve a special mention. The Trout fish is also famous in this region, but it is not available today. Another type of fish is served.
We return to the Legendary hotel and on route observe a sign ‘I ❤️ Chitral’ sign that is a succinct summary of this unique journey.
Return to Islamabad
The following morning, Thursday 27 February, we depart at 7.15am and first have breakfast at the residence of Mawlānā Noor in Broze. Mawlānā Noor then accompanies us until Dir after the Lowari Pass. There is snow after the Lowari Tunnel, however the road is open.
We continue the journey, there is a lot of traffic, and there is also rainfall. We stop for lunch and Ṣalāh and thereafter arrive into Rawalpindi at 8pm. The return journey took longer, 12 hours. I stay the night at Pearl Continental hotel in Rawalpindi. It is an old hotel. In the morning, brother Muhammad Naeem collects me at 6.15am and drops me to Islamabad Airport. The flight to Dubai and from there to Manchester are both full. I reach home in the evening, and Ramadan has started in Saudi Arabia. Wifaqul Ulama has also announced the start of Ramadan based on the sighting of one person via binoculars. This was the correct decision considering the circumstance, however, for future a discussion is required for the testimony to only be accepted if the viewing is via the naked eye. Just because the sighting via binoculars is valid according to some scholars, does not mean that it has to be accepted.
Conclusion
Along with meeting with the Palestinian students in Islamabad, the highlight of the journey was Chitral, a unique place with a rich history and heritage. Chitral and other remote areas of Pakistan and elsewhere deserve increased attention of donors and charities. May Allah Almighty accept the work of Global Reach and bless its founder, brother Abdul Salam who left no stone unturned in ensuring the journey was comfortable and made all the necessary arrangements, and grant them the ability to continue serving the remote areas and impoverished communities in different parts of Pakistan. The visit to Chitral was short and brief, a future trip ideally in the summer to Chitral and also Gilgit and Hunza will require an entire week to explore the region further.
Dr Yusuf Shabbir
5 Ramadan 1446 / 5 March 2025
